Golfing in Cyprus at Aphrodite Hills (with original paintings by Lyn Farmiloe)
A new player in the field of specialist holiday golf destinations is Cyprus, an eastern Mediterranean island with a strong Greek history and tradition, despite a strong Turkish presence, and an invasion by Turkey in 1974 that leaves the island partitioned to this day (although diplomatic moves are afoot to end this impasse). Cyprus golf was built around two courses (Tsada and Secret Valley) since the early 1990s but it is the latest development - Aphrodite Hills which opened in 2002 - that will alert the world to the golfing pleasures that can be found in this charming part of the world.
The golf in Cyprus is, for the moment at least, situated in the south-west corner of the island, around the town of Paphos (also spelt 'Pafos') and it's a good base from which to see much that the island has to offer, including the striking offshore rock where legend has it that Aphrodite, goddess of love, was born. Cyprus has a long and fascinating history and when you're not playing golf there is a great deal to explore. It is very popular with, and has long associations with the British but don't worry, UK visitors tend to be late middle-aged and older, more interested in a nice cup of tea and an early night than getting drunk in the disco.
In consequence there are a number of signs advertising 'full English breakfast' and quite a few bars with names such as the Queen Vic or Rovers Return but if you prefer ethnic authenticity on your holiday, the real Cyprus, with all its Greek influence and cultural history, is only a few minutes away.
Aphrodite Hills
Secret Valley and Tsada were built, one suspects, to dip a toe in the water and see if Cyprus could hack it as a specialist golf destination. Aphrodite Hills will ensure that it becomes one - it's that good. And it gets better. The Lanitis Group, which masterminded the development, has plans for at least three more high quality courses and resorts around the island. A five-star Intercontinental hotel has been built, for example, on the Aphrodite Hills complex but, unlike Spain and Portugal before them, Cyprus has learned the lesson about high-rise hotels spoiling the very landscape that visitors come to view, so most building on the island is strictly regulated and it is rare to see anything built nowadays that climbs higher than three or four stories.
But no matter what the quality of hotels or infrastructure, for the golfer it is the quality of the course that matters and Aphrodite Hills is an extremely enjoyable challenge. It is in many ways the perfect holiday course, this means that it requires thought and a sensible approach but is not over penal (there are only two water hazards, for example). In addition, it starts fairly gently but has a tough finish, particularly the par five 18th, which is guarded by water and would tempt only the crispest strikers of a ball to go for the green in two.
The course was designed by Cabell B. Robinson, an American who learnt his trade with the Trent Jones company before fleeing that particular professional nest to set up on his own. He tends to specialise in the Mediterranean region and among his earlier projects are Praia d'el Ray (Lisbon) and La Cala (Malaga). If you're familiar with those courses it is perhaps sufficient to say that Aphrodite Hills at least matches and in some respects betters them.
The course is set on two plateaus amid the hills and the signature hole is undoubtedly the par three seventh. Because of the land on which the course lies, buggies are compulsory and when you drive down the cart path cut into the side of a gorge to get to the seventh tee, you will understand why. The track is reminiscent of those winding mountain roads you traverse to reach a skiing resort. The hole itself is a mid length (156 metres) one-shotter to a wide but shallow green with no bunkers.
Oh, and between you and the green is nothing but a yawning chasm. Simply, you hit the green (or go a little long) or you're dead, and there's absolutely no way, if you fall short, that you can recover your golf ball. It's the classic all-or-nothing par three that requires a little courage and faith in your swing.
The eighth is a real gem, a par-4 where accuracy is essential off the tee and the second is hit to a green which has the sea sparkling like diamonds behind it. Generally, the back nine is the more enjoyable of the two but the width of the fairways and size of the greens mean that players of most abilities will get around as long as they're relatively straight. But a word of warning, the size of the putting surfaces means that you can find the very short grass without too much difficulty but put yourself in the wrong part and a three-putt is almost guaranteed.
Like all good courses, Aphrodite Hills has an excellent closing hole in the shape of a par-5 which is guarded up at the green by a sizeable water hazard. No expense has been spared either on or off the course at Aphrodite Hills and the clubhouse is certainly a match for the best anywhere else in the world.
The villas and apartments being built as part of the complex are not intrusive and playing the 18th to the accompaniment of the Electric Light Orchestra's Mr Blue Sky made for a rather appropriate finale to a round of golf in 65F at the end of February. Green fees in 2006 are £CY64 (until May 22; then £CY49 until September 12 and £CY69 from September 13 onwards) and are reasonable considering that they include the cost of buggy hire. There are significant reductions for children under 16, who must be accompanied by an adult. In April 2006, a Cyprus pound was worth £1.18 sterling.

You will be hearing many good things about this delightful layout and they will probably all be justified because golf here, and the island of Cyprus generally, is inviting, enjoyable and above all, fun. Cyprus Airways and British Airways fly from most major British airports (flight time four to four and a half hours) to both Paphos and Larnaca, which are both within easy reach of the island's three golf courses, Paphos (15 mins) is the closest and Larnaca (90 mins) has the most flights.
There are many charter operators flying out to Cyprus and links to their websites are on our useful links page. |
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